Kimono Fabric

Rinzu 綸子

Rinzu 綸子, Japanese satin. Only warp threads or weft threads appear on the surface, and the feature is that the ground pattern is woven and although the fabric is not thicker than crepe, it is glossy and smooth to touch and soft.

Chirimen 縮緬

Chirimen 縮緬 crepe: For crepe, use plain untwisted warp and plain weave with strong twisted yarn as weft.

Ro 絽

Ro fabric is loosely woven from very fine silk threads, creating sheer, airy, summer kimono. Horizontal and vertical lines are shown by the gaps in the weave, created by braiding pairs of threads over one central thread. 

Sha 紗

Sha is another woven silk gauze, typically used for unlined summer kimonos. Unlike in ro fabric, the threads are not braided, so there are no vertical or horizontal stripes caused by gaps in the weave. Sha fabric is therefore much stiffer.., and it is more transparent than a Ro and more casual than a Ro.

Ra 羅

Ro and Sha are loosely woven fabrics and their transparent fabric give a cool feeling, but La is particularly strong in those features. It looks like hand-knitted wool.

The word La originally refers to the catch net used for hunting small animals, and later came to be used for coarse-textured silk fabrics. From such a background, you can see it how Ra is a net-like material.

Habutae 羽二重

Habutae, also called 平絹(flat silk), is a plain weave fabric woven from untwisted raw silk, and is characterized by its flatness and smoothness.

Unlike Rinzu silk, it has no ground pattern. It is a luxury item used for crested Kimonolike a Kurohaori with Mon for official visiting, and is also used for the back of the kimono lining.

Shusu 繻子

Shusu is an abbreviation for satin weaving and is the basis of weaving.

Only warp threads or weft threads appear on the surface, and the feature is that the texture is smooth and glossy.

It is called satin in English and is often used for Obi and Tabi.

Donsu 緞子

Donsu is a Shusu weave with a clear pattern.

Dyed first, and weaving patterns by changing the colors of the warp and weft. The fabric is thick and heavy, and is a high-class fabric. It is glossy and smooth to the touch, and is often used for obi as well as kimono.

Types of Kimono

Kuro Tomesode 黒留袖

The first dress for a special occasion worn by a married woman. Kurotomesode is black and has pattern only on the Skirt-part. Always with 5 MON. When the woman turned 18 years old or when she got married, the long-sleeved Kimono was shorted. That custom is called Tomesode. Tomesode was a normally Kimono for adult woman not only for a special occasion.

But around the beginning of the 19th century, this custom is changed, first class formal Kimono for married women is Black Kimono with Edo-tsuma( Pattern only under half of Kimono) 5 Mon) . This is Kuro-Tomesode.

Now a days Kurotomesode is worn by mothers of bride and groom and Nakoudo ( who attend wedding) and family of bride and groom.

Iro Tomesode

Iro Tomesode with 5 Mon is equivalent to Kuro Tomesode. It is the first class dress for celebration ceremony , even unmarried women can wear.Japanese formal and semi formal Kimono are basically classified according to the number and type of Mon. Kuro Tomesode have to have 5 Mon Hinata Dyeing, but Iro Tomesode can have 1 or 3 or 5 Mon.

Occasion

with 5 Mon:Wedding Party for family of bride and groom, with 1 or 3 Mon : Official Party, Special tea ceremony

Iro Muji

Iro 色 color and Muji 無地 no pattern , so Iromuji Kimono has no pattern and a single color. Depending on the number of Mon, it is either formal or semi-formmal, It´s very convenient to habe one Iromuji Kimono with one Mon. You can dress up or down depending of the coordination of the Obi.

Furisode

Furiosede 振袖

First class dress of an unmarried woman. The longer the sleeve length, the higher the dignity.The name furisode originated in the early Edo period. It was worn by unmarried women up to the age of 18 and was a symbol of their youth.

Sleeve length: 

大振袖 Oohufurisode XL125cm 振袖 Furisode L114cm 中振袖chuufurisode M 87-106cm 小振袖S Kofurisode-76cm-86cm

Occasion

  • Oofurisode :Weddingkimono. Furiose
  • Furiose: Wedding party as a guest, Official party
  • Chufurisode, Kofurisode: new year tea ceremony, party

Houmongi 訪問着

Houmongi , it was named as Houmongi in the Meiji era as the same as English visiting dress. At this time Houmongi was social wear with 3 Mon. Now Houmongi with only one Mon oder without Mon is normal.

Houmongi is created by the method called “eba”; all the patterns on a kimono continues as if it is one big picture regardless of seam or stitch. “Eba” is a kind of pattern-making in kimono, and refers to the way a pattern continues on a seam. A pattern is drawn like a painting

Occasion:wedding ceremony, a class reunion,, a tea party, various parties.  

Tsukesage 付下げ訪問着

Tsukesage ist a simolification of Houmongi. Tsukesage patterns on a kimono is not continues. This simple Kimono made the time when luxury was banned during world war.

Occasion: You can dress up or down depending of the coordination of the Obi. ceremony, tea ceremony, casual party

Komon 小紋

Komon (fine-patterned dyeing) is a type of textile dyed with repeated minute patterns. Komon (fine-patterned dyeing) commenced in the Muromachi Period (1337-1573). By the Edo Period (1603 -1867), fine-patterned dyeing came to be represented by the art of stencil dyeing.

It’s like a printed silk dress.

Occasion: visiting theater, casual party, shopping, meeting… If you have one Komon, it will be very useful.